The first chilly evening of the season brought us to Bikano’s, where something hot and sticky was attracting attention at the counter.
The jalebis were being made fresh.
Batter flowed into the oil in quick circles, guided by a steady hand. Each pale spiral turned golden before being lifted and lowered into warm sugar syrup.
We watched respectfully.
There is something difficult to resist about a jalebi being made in front of you. Perhaps it is the heat. Perhaps it is the syrup. Perhaps it is the confidence with which it displays every curve.
BETTER IN EXPERIENCED HANDS
Jalebi appears simple when someone else makes it.
There is batter, hot oil and syrup. The cook pipes a few effortless circles, waits briefly and lifts out something crisp, golden and suspiciously perfect.
This can give an ordinary person ideas.
At home, the piping bottle emerges. Everyone is asked to stand back.
The first attempt resembles California. The second refuses to separate from the pan. By the third, the family moves from the kitchen and makes jokes.
Hmph. some pleasures are better left in experienced hands. (The piping bottle may return to storage.)
INTENDED… FOR HOME!
Fresh jalebi can be packed neatly into a box and taken home…That is the official plan.
The difficulty is that warm jalebi has very little respect for long-term commitments. The outside is still crisp, the syrup is still warm, and the aroma follows you towards the car.
One piece is opened for “checking”. A second is needed to confirm things.
By the time the box reaches home, it is done.
HOW DO YOU LIKE YOURS?
Some like it hot and crisp, directly from the syrup. Some want it with chai. Others add rabri, having decided that restraint has already left the conversation.
Then there are people who prefer jalebi after it has softened slightly. (They deserve the same kindness as everyone else.)
At Bikano’s, the pleasure begins before the first bite. Watching each spiral take shape is part of the experience.
The video loops neatly, allowing viewers to revisit the moment when batter meets oil and good intentions begin to weaken.
The first chill is here. Winter preparations are going well.
We have located the hot jalebis and plan to maintain a close professional interest until spring.
How are you eating yours?